Wednesday, 15 January 2014

Trending: New set of players, old set of rules


Those of you that have visited my Dutch shop on www.samalla.nl know that next to my own brand Samalla, I sell items from wholesellers. I try to mix and match with what I like to make and somehow present to you a package off wedding, costume and fanfic items. It's sometimes pretty hard to mix and match everything and make it a complete story for my costumers. Because a weddingdress stands a bit far from a jumpsuit for Marvel's Phoenix.

There is something I need to get off my chest. It has to do with the Wholesale companies. Yes you, wholesellers, pay attention!

The market has changed. Brick and mortar shops fade. The big ones fall hard and the small ones silently disappear. It is sad that strolling through your favorite shops is ending. What I noticed in Hoorn (small city in the Netherlands) is that the shops make way for restaurants and specialty shops. And tattoo parlors, but it's a harbor-city, that's not surprising. People buy online. Why go out in the rain for your most wanted goods if you can buy it all online? You scroll in the shop, no one there to bother you. If you want to think it over, you bookmark it and it's all a click away. You save gas and parking money, or a public transport ticket and maybe just pay shipping costs. Even for weddingdresses this is the case.

The new players of the game in retail. They have been there for a while and more are coming.

What I noticed is that terms of the wholesale companies are still those of the brick and mortar shops. I'm not going to mention specific wholesale companies, but some might recognize something. I'm going to sum op a few reasons why some wholesellers don't do business with companies like mine.

You must spend a minimum amount of xxxx euro
I get that. But asking an amount I don't see back within a month is just ridiculous. I know there is just as much work on filling half a box when you fill a whole box, but you're asking me to fill 3 boxes! I like your product and want to see if my costumer likes the product. If they do, then get me 5 boxes! I'm not going to spend all the money I have for the next 3 months on a guess. Help me out a bit here. Charge shipping, really not a problem.

You must have a brick and mortar shop
Well, if you're only selling to those shops, your numbers will go flatline at a point. I have a brick and mortar workshop, in which I receive costumers that made an appointment? Ohw, it doesn't count. But that bridal shop that only opens her doors for costumers with an appointment does count.

If you buy from us, you can only sell bridal
I can understand you don't want your brand to be seen with something that is not in your taste, but I think in this economy you have to be able to open up a bit more to the opportunities given. Your competition won't hesitate. But, all up to you!

We will need the official papers of that you are a company
That's very oldfashioned. It used to be that you had to ask for official paperwork to proof to a wholesale company you were allowed to buy tax free. These days there is the internet. You should try it. If you go to the company registry site (www.kvk.nl for the Netherlands) crosscheck my number and name, you have all my details in screen. But instead you want me to pay extra money for papers, because you seem to like paperwork. This is what stops a lot of 'new players' to deal with you and move on to the next one. I once asked why they didn't want to check online. It was to 'keep my details safer'. Yes, details that are public on the internet do get safer when printed on paper. I'm lost on this one.

We don't do business with shops that are in an xx-km radius of another dealer
Ok. That dealer seems to be an online shop. So am I. Ehm. I don't even know what to say. Internet is the same street now?

The last one I got, I'm not going to mention. It was a special kind of something. I'm not allowed to talk about it even. Still trying to process that one in my brain.

Now I have to mention that the most oldfashioned way of dealing comes from Dutch Wholesale, so Dutch shops are forced to look abroad (yay for Dutch economy dropping...).

And before any wholesale accountmanager reading this thinking 'she doesn't know how things go around here', I used to have your job. I learned that catching a big fish is one good meal. Once the fish decides to leave, you'll be starving. Little fish tend to stay around longer if you treat them well.


Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Marievonne


#1
So the dress has been dyed bright blue. The sunburns are gone and it now has a bit of a tropical feeling to it. I'm not sure what to think yet. The buttons got the same colour, which I was going for. You can still see the flower pattern. I'm just wondering if the white (now headache blue) bias was such a good idea. It now needs lots of ironing to get back into shape.

After ironing it, I see the bias didn't survive the long in the water time. Even though I always preshrink my fabrics before I even use them, the vintage cotton and the new cotton lining shifted in shape. I'm not that happy about the outcome and I'm going to hang the #1 dress on my door, to maybe fix it another time, due to the time-table I have before 7Gates.

#2
The black and blue dress is also encountering some issues. The self made pattern of the corset was great around the chest this time, but not around the waste. So what I made is in the 'finish when you have time' section. I still have a black underbust ribbon corset I could use, if I don't get around making a new corset.

Now since I'm all into clearing out fabrics from the workshop with the Marievonne dresses, I seem to have a talent on picking the most impossible fabrics these weeks. The shiny black and blue fabric is nice and soft... and not cooperating one bit! I'm trying to make a short chemise from it, but the darn thing kept slipping away. It's all sewn together now and I'm waiting for some ribbons to tie it all together.

#3
The last dress was already half finished. It was supposed to be the Wedding dress  which I redesigned at the last moment due to blue velvet shortage. It's a red 'raw satin' basic skirt and top. The reason why I didn't start off with this one, because I thought the whole design wasn't flowery enough. Having all these issues with the flowery fabrics in my other dresses, I think I'll test my luck on this one :).

I'ts a bit of a travelers dress. Red is Marievonne's colour (coat of arms, hair) and yet she is a girly girl, her family is a practical one. The whole dress can be worn for other things and the overdress can be used with other skirts. Just like the first and second dress, they are a bit transformable. Just match them around to make a whole new look. When I'm selling these dresses, you can buy them in parts, so you can just get whatever you like and leave what you don't.

Thursday, 9 May 2013

7Gates 3.0 Dress #1 and #2


#1 front

#1

Finished up the blue and white dress, still need to figure out what colour I'm going to paint it. And if I'll wear a corset under it. I fitted it without a corset and it's good without one.


I was going for a not too flashy dress. Having the jacket part on really put an accent on the bum and hips, which I didn't really expect. It looks a bit floppy on the dolly, so as soon as there is a real life picture, I will show you.

The buttons are something I had laying around. They have a nice vintage look (and probably are) and I'm curious about what they will look like after the dye.


#2

#2

Now the second dress is up. The black basic skirt and busk and boneless corset (still no supplies) are done. Now I still have some shiny blue and black flowered fabric. It's going to look like a very heavy dress for a spring event, but a bit of drama is never bad ;).

Now I'm still thinking about the shape. I think I'm going shoulderless on this one.

Wednesday, 8 May 2013

7Gates 3.0 Dress #1

At the moment I'm making 3 different dresses at once for just one character of 7Gates: Marievonne. She is a sweet yet spoiled little girl who has got everything she wants and want even more. I played her before on the 7Gates wedding event in this dress, which is currently up for sale on Etsy. All dresses of Marievonne will be up for sale eventually, since she has a new dress every day (I know I'm going to be sorry for this).

7Gates has a 17th/18th century theme. That is actually a lot of styles you can pick from. The only thing I need to keep in mind is to be after Elizabeth and before Victoria, and you'll grab towards Tudor or Victorian pretty easily.

I like making dresses like this in pieces. Making the top and skirt separate improves your own movement and comfort. This first dress has an off-white cotton skirt, a blue and white overskirt and a blue and white jacket. I'm still waiting on bones from my supplier, but I'm going to try and make an off white overbust corset with it. I made a black one on a new made pattern and want to see how that fits before I cut out another one.

The blue/white cotton with the floral pattern is vintage. I really like it, but it has a few sunburns in it. I was thinking to dye it all when I am done. It would take care of the sunburns and make it a bit more rich. I just don't know which colour would be better. Petrol, old grey, or go crazy with a bright blue or green?